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I was going to loan my car to a friend tomorrow, and checked the oil and tire pressure etc earlier this week, but couldn't see the coolant level, so I just went to double-check it with a drinking straw, and pulled out black goop floating on the coolant. A little deeper is clean coolant, and the coolant in the top of the radiator is clean. The oil level is normal and doesn't seem frothy. I did recently get a pending check engine code P1??? for the coolant temperature not being high enough? But most of the time I'm driving it's in exactly the middle where it's supposed to be, never goes over.

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I put in motor oil in my car and got onto the freeway and after got up to 60 speed I noticed my car was filled up with white smoke and I pulled over looked around the car and nothing it wasn't overheating what can it possibly be also notice under the car a splash of black oil

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I have a 2007 Pontiac G6, 4 cylinder. About a 4 months ago in January I almost got hit by a Dodge Durango that ran a light and almost crushed me literally headed straight for the driver door. So i threw my car sideways to avoid me getting hit and just the back of the car, but i went all the way sideways and avoid it altogether but could not come back out of it and hit the side of a curb with that wheel. So took it to Firestone and they said they could not see and bends or damages to anything except the wheel was out of alignment and tire was bent so i got that done that day new tire and rim.

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This question is based on Toyota Hybrid flyers / experience but I suppose it's meant to be general for hybrids? The concept is to use electric engine for braking (therefore often the power of electric engine exceeds the power that can be drawn from battery) and load battery in that way. But what happens, if the battery is full? What does the hybrid do with the surplus energy? Or then is the gasoline motor used for braking? I've noticed engine working loud when using downhill assistant at the end of long downhill when the battery was full, but it could be because the slope was more steep at the end.

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The car I'm rebuilding (Skoda Estelle/120, 70's, RWD, rear-mounted engine), uses half axles for the transmission, that goes inside housing elements (thick "pipes"). These axles uses pin-and-guiding blocks as link to the differential (housed together with the gear box), and a woodruf key in the conical-profile tip where the wheel hub gets secured. The main problem I always have with this design is that the woodruf key/hub/nut assembly gets loose very often, so I want to try a different design. The half axles I can have are from Ladas. The design is different: the Lada axle is a typical front-mounted engine with rear transmission.

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I have a Toyota RAV4 2002. Have steering wander, little center response, also the steering steer on its own some time. Also outside wear on one tire. The whole rack was moving alot, so I replaced the rack bushings with poly busings, and the outer tie rods is brand new. Now I have a clicking/popping sound comming from outside, driverside where the rack connects to the steering wheel area when turning wheel. Pulled hard in the inner tie rods but no movement. Cant find any loosenes from the steering wheel and down either. Also disconnected sway bar but still noise. I took of the boot on the driver side, and turned wheel too look whats happening. The whole rack shaft bends when turning.

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I have a 2013 Honda Accord 2.4L and I'm trying to decide on getting a battery with a higher voltage or getting a new starter. I've experienced an unusual starting problem. If I turn the car on the "on" position without the engine running and I stay in the car for 30+ minutes, it will not crank over. I will here click noise and it sounds like it will turn over but after two seconds, cuts off. The lights in the dashboard all flash at once. I've tested my battery, starter, alternator and they all passed. Here's the kicker; if I wait 10=15 minutes and then try to start the car, it starts right up! Also the lights, accessories, doors, etc...are not affected.

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To prevent would-be vandals from putting rocks or something in my tailpipe, can you foresee any long term effects from having custom-made grates on my exhaust pipes?

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Does the usual cruise control feature include braking on most cars? I mean, if the car goes down the hill and braking by engine is not enough, are the brakes initiated so that the car does not exceed the set speed? This forum post mentions the BMW X3 having the braking functionality for CC, but I just wonder what the norm is in the industry, whether most cars come with that braking or not. A further search reveals that BMW calls this feature Dynamic Cruise Control like this video explains.

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