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If you compare call of duty 2 with advanced warfare and the respective FIFA's of 2004 and 2014, there's a very drastic change. What are the reasons for the same ? What inventions and changes have supplemented the same ?

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I think the image of the week is great, and I often see an image that I would like to know more about, or see in a larger size. I expected that clicking on the image would take me to the original entry, where the photographer might have made some notes of what the photo is of and how/where it was taken, such as: "Photo of very rare animal, taken in exotic location with lens model on a camera model. 1/125, f/8, iso 200." This information is not included in the Hall of Fame, and there is no easy way to see where the photo is within the long list entries for that particular week. Is there an easy way to do this? If not, could it be considered as a feature?

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Here is an unexciting test shot of some ducks in a river, taken in bright sunlight: In the foreground, the highlights have a distinctly pink cast. I am certain they weren't pinkish in reality, since it's a reflection of the sun. The white balance was set automatically by the camera and appears to be correct. (It's almost identical to Lightroom's 'daylight' white balance preset.) Additionally, in the following picture (which is slightly out of focus) the highlights appeared greenish: I suspect it has to do with chromatic aberration, since they seem to come out greenish when the focal plane is in front of the water and pinkish when it's behind it.

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Adobe bridge CC (which is free) enables its support for the Adobe Camera Raw plug-in when Photoshop CC (trial) is activated too. The Bridge+ARC combo satisfies my need for quick adjustments and media browsing, but it won't run without an activated version of Photoshop.

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I'm shooting macro video with a Sony a6300 with a 50mm macro lens. I'm trying to do food shots with extremely shallow depth of field, for example two cookies, one behind the other. I'm trying to do a 3 second video with the back cookie in focus, then quickly snap the front cookie into focus. The trouble is when I twist the focus ring it shakes the camera and the video comes out shaky. I've put it on a tripod but it's not enough. Since the shot is so close-up, even the tiniest shake makes the video look bad. Any tips on how to stabilize the shot without buying expensive equipment? Thanks!

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I have a Canon ELPH 300 HS, which turns off immediately (or within 10 seconds, it varies) after being turned on. The battery is fully charged and not at fault, as it was subsequently used in an ELPH 310 without a problem, and the 310's battery in the 300 resulted in the same problem. I've been combing the net and have found that many others have had the same problem, but few have solutions. There is also this page which says that for the Powershot S3 IS this can be solved by replacing the date/time battery. I would try replacing it, but I'm not sure what kind it is, nor where in the body it's located.

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I have seen several examples of a beautiful lens effect, naturally due to a stopped down aperture, but not like a lens star I have managed to create myself - it is so clean. Here is an example: https://500px. com/photo/107678057/end-of-days-by-dylan-gehlken?from=popular What specific lens(es) are able to produce such a clean star effect? I am envious.

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I am a beginner in this topic, so I dont know if it is possible what I try to do. First of all, I have the following HF35HA-1B lens: It says the maximum sensor size is 2/3", but I have a non-standard 25mmx25mm image sensor, so I want to do some hackings. I know the flange focal distance of Cmount lenses is 17.526mm, but what if I move the image sensor further back from the lens? I suppose the further I go from the lens, the bigger image I get. But how can I calculate the radius of the image circle? I did a very easy test, in which I could make sure that even if I move the sensor back the image is focused for closer objects, so I think that is not an issue.

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I'm hoping this isn't a "doh" answer as I've been looking for quite a while to find an elegant solution. I'm trying to merge two shapes together that are placed right next to each other but not overlapping. Essentially I want to combine the overlapping strokes as the goal is to laser cut the shapes most efficiently. Here's a close-up screenshot of my file. Note that I'm in Outline mode (CMD Y). The selected shape is a block letter "C" and the shape on the left is just a rectangle.

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